For decades, EFCO has innovated new ways to solve challenges faced by concrete construction professionals worldwide. Our highly engineered concrete forming and shoring equipment meet the highest standards in safety, improving efficiency and protecting your budget. Between training, field support, and effective design, EFCO has the lowest in-place concrete cost in the industry, making our products your best bet to support your demanding project schedule.
THE EFCO DIFFERENCE
Why Trust Anyone Else?
Safe and efficient concrete forming and shoring equipment allow your team to bring the project vision to life. We work to find a solution to fit the needs of any project. Our formwork, dedicated field service support, and highly engineered drawings are just a few reasons we have become one of the leading choices for concrete formwork worldwide. You dream it, and we will provide solutions for you to form it and live it!
Dedicated EFCO Support
Engineering and Field Service Experts
With second-to-none engineering and field service support in the concrete forming industry, you will always have an expert available to help stage equipment and explain assembly. Your engineering team will develop assembly and erection plans to meet your job site requirements. We will optimize products to provide you with the lowest in-place concrete cost to ensure your success on the job site.
Efficient Formwork Solution
EFCO Engineers will prepare, plan and communicate drawings and calculations to provide an efficient solution to your needs. If needed, an EFCO field supervisor can provide hands-on training on the job site to provide you with any additional training your crew may need.
Optimizing Transportation to Reduce Costs
The EFCO plant manager will be available as your point of contact for the duration of your project to optimize transportation and reduce costs for your project.
Engineered Formwork Drawings
Formwork Solutions
Our technical drawings accurately depict all components of the shoring and formwork systems. These easy-to-understand blueprints serve as helpful resources, giving a clear view of real-life applications. EFCO is a leader in providing innovative formwork and shoring solutions to provide you with the lowest in-place concrete cost.
Need Advice on a project?
We have formwork and shoring solution experts to support you in all construction areas – from infrastructures and power plants to highrises and industrial buildings. You can dream it. We can help you build it! Choose from formwork systems, components, safety solutions, and services for all your concrete construction project requirements.
Safety Focused Team
All of our forming and shoring systems are intentionally designed for easy assembly and progression throughout the project. This improves both the safety and productivity of your team. Thanks to efficient, easy-to-use formwork, we offer the lowest in-place concrete cost in the industry.
EFCO Concrete Construction and Forming Institute
Since EFCO opened the doors to the Concrete Construction and Forming Institute in 2002, we’ve had over 5,600 people from over 900 companies make their way through our state-of-the-art education and training facility. This includes working with our customers to demonstrate how to effectively and safely use our products and providing hands-on learning for your team. We have the facilities to demonstrate how our products are made and how they are used in the field.
Formwork and Shoring Equipment
Learn about our wide range of versatile formwork and shoring equipment ready to meet contractors’ needs in any concrete construction application.
Formwork Solutions
Partner with EFCO to choose the best formwork for your projects. Find forming solutions from handset formwork to hydraulically lifted self-climbing formwork and everything in-between.
Shoring Products
Our highly versatile shoring products are known for their simplicity & strength. Learn more about our shoring systems to support your project from start to finish.
How to build formwork
Эта статья о how to build a formwork for the foundation of a house, a garage or other constructions, but you can also use these techniques to pour large spans of concrete, such as patios or decks. Building a formwork for concrete is not a complex job, but you have to work patiently and with great care, otherwise you won’t be able to pour concrete in a professional manner. There is a strong misconception, that anything that cannot be seen is unimportant. Nothing can be more false and we will show you in this step by step diy guide, how important is to build a proper formwork for a concrete foundation. Consequently, you have to follow our guidelines and to use only the best materials and tools, especially if you are unexperienced. In addition we recommend you to hire a qualified professional, because this is one of the things we cannot play with.
Building the foundation of your house is essential for its durability so make sure you hire a qualified engineer to determine the amount of the rebars you have to use, and the depth of your foundation. You have to find these details in the foundation plans, so make sure you observe them, otherwise you risk getting a serious fine or building an unsafe house. Nevertheless, the first stage of building a concrete foundation, is to learn how to dig a foundation.
Для того, чтобы build a rigid form, you have to use 2×10 wooden boards and to secure them with 2×4 braces. We can assure you from our experience, that doing a poor job will influence directly the quality and durability of your foundation, therefore follow our tips to get the job done in a professional manner. The concrete will exert a great force towards the wooden form, therefore you have to secure it with strong braces. In addition, make sure there are no visible gaps between the wooden boards, as the concrete juice might leak through them.
Building the form for your house foundation is an ideal opportunity to install the polystyrene sheet insulation. Therefore, study the local codes and choose the sheets which satisfy both your needs and comply with the local code. Use a handsaw to cut the sheets, whenever you need to adjust their dimensions. Work with great care and follow the house plans, if you want to obtain a professional result.
Сделано по этому плану
Для того, чтобы build formwork for foundation, вам понадобится следующее:
Материалы
- 1×4 wood boards for building the formworks
- 2×4 wood stakes to lock into position the formwork for concrete
- 2×4 lumber for securing the forms
- nails/wood screws to fasten the formwork
- polystyrene sheets to insulate the foundation (optional)
Инструменты
- safety gloves, glasses
- measuring tape, carpentry pencil, l-square
- circular saw/jigsaw to build the formwork
- забивать
- use boots, as not to get your cloths and skin dirty with concrete
- clean thoroughly your tools after you have finished the project
- wear protective glasses and gloves, to avoid possible injuries
- few hours up to a day, according to the surface of your foundation and the number of workers
Installing the rebar structure in foundation
Installing the rebar structure in the foundation trenches
The first step of this project is to install the rebar structure in the foundation trenches. Nevertheless, there are cases in which you might not install such a complex rebar structure (in the case of light constructions, large spans of concrete).
Умный совет: first you have to connect all rebar beams together above the foundation trenches. Consequently, use 2×4 lumber every 2′ over the trenches, to make sure they will support the weight of the rebar structure.
Rebar beams in the foundation
After you have connected properly the rebar beams, you have to set the whole structure on the bottom of the foundation. Consequently, you have to pull out all the 2×4 boards (on which sits the rebar structure), one by one, until the reinforcing structure falls in the foundation.
Умный совет: check one more time if the connections between the rebar structure are made properly, otherwise the foundation won’t support the weight of the house.
Rebar structure joint
In this image, you can see a close-up with a rebar structure joint. You should notice that the joint is rigid and secured properly with wire. Make sure the reinforcing beams are aligned properly, as the walls will be build exactly over them. If the reinforcing beams aren’t done properly, the walls of your house won’t be supported properly.
Умный совет: during the construction of your foundation, the process must be supervised by a qualified professional in this field.
Formwork for foundation
After you made sure the reinforcing structure is made properly and aligned according to foundation plans, you have to build the formwork as to be able to pour in concrete.
Умный совет: the formwork must be built in a professional manner, as it will have to support huge forces while you pour in concrete.
Building the formwork for a concrete foundation
In order to build the formwork for the foundation, you have to use qualitative 2×10 wooden boards and 2×4 posts. Consequently, you have to read the foundation plans, to see the height of the foundation elevation from the ground. Next you have to build the formwork panels, as you can see in the image.
Умный совет: when fastening the 2×4 pegs, you should use a l-square to make sure they plumb. The plugs must be fastened every 2′, by using nails.
Securing formwork with braces
In order to secure the formwork, you have to install braces over the pegs. Consequently, at one end you should fasten the braces to the pegs, with screws/nails, while at the other end you have to fit it into ground for at least 1’/30 cm.
Умный совет: when installing the formwork, you have to use a spirit level, as to make sure its is plumb. In addition, if you have to connect more formwork panels together, you have to use string lines, to make sure they are aligned.
Securing the formwork
Next, after you have installed the formwork, you should verify if it is rigid and secured properly with braces. In addition, you could fasten the interior formwork to the exterior formwork, by installing 2×4 lumber every 2′, as you can see in the image.
Умный совет: for a proper isolation of the foundation, you could install polystyrene sheets (4”/10 cm thick) along the exterior perimeter of the trenches. In this way, during winters, the inside temperature wont drop due to a cold flooring.
Securing the formwork with 2×2 lumber
In this image you can see a close-up with the formwork, as well with the reinforcing bars. You should be able to notice that the rebar beams are aligned properly, and that the formork is plumb and rigid, due to the braces and pegs we have previously installed.
Building a form for a foundation is a very serious project, so you have to be supervised by a qualified professional. In addition, remember that you have to comply with the local codes and construction regulation, otherwise you expose yourself to a great danger.
Remember that our article has only an informative purpose, to make you familiarized with the process of building formwork for a concrete foundation. We don’t assume any responsibility for your actions nor we claim that this is the way things should be done. On the contrary, we only show you the way we work in some cases.
Pouring concrete in the formwork
After you have checked the rigidity of the foundation formwork and made sure it is aligned and plumb, you have to pour in concrete . You could pour in concrete in many ways: you can prepare it by using a power mixer and transport it with a wheelbarrow, you could pour it in directly from the concrete truck or you can use a pomp and 4” hoses.
If the location is inaccessible for the concrete truck, as to pour the concrete directly, you also have to rent a pomp for concrete. Afterwards, you should several hoses to the pomp, to have access to the formwork. After you have poured concrete in the foundation, you have to use a concrete vibrator, to make sure there are no air pockets left. In most of the cases, the company which delivers the concrete will also give you a concrete vibrator, but there are situations when you have to rent the tool.
Спасибо, что прочитали нашу статью о how to build a formwork for a concrete foundation, and we recommend you to share our project with your friends using the social media widgets.
Tips to Build a Concrete Walkway
Build strong, crack-free concrete sidewalks and slabs with these 10 pro tips. Tips include forming edges, leveling, smoothing, curing and other vital steps in creating a first-rate concrete pour. Also, the 10 most common mistakes.
Эксперты DIY журнала The Family Handyman Magazine
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Формы для бетонных дорожек Совет 1: Overbuild your forms
Diagonal “kicker” plus stake
The angled 2×4 reinforces the side stake that holds the form vertical.
Every builder has a horror story about forms that bulged or even collapsed under the force of wet concrete. To avoid a horror story of your own, build strong forms. Use 1-1/2-in.-thick boards (2x4s, 2x6s, etc.) except on curves. If you’re using 2x4s or 2x6s, place stakes no more than 3 ft. apart. If the forms extend below ground, pack soil against them. If they extend more than 6 in. aboveground, reduce the spacing between stakes and brace each one with a second stake and a diagonal “kicker.”
Совет 2: Form curves with hardboard
Create smooth curves
Hardboard is inexpensive form material and is easy to flex into smooth curves.
Hardboard siding is intended for exterior walls, but it’s also great stuff for forming curves because it’s flexible and cheap. A 12-in. x 16-ft. plank costs about $10 at lumberyards and you can cut it to any width you need. Because it’s so flexible, hardboard needs extra reinforcement to prevent bulging against the force of the concrete. If the forms are belowground, place stakes no more than 3 ft. apart and pack soil against them. For aboveground forms, space stakes 16 in. apart. To form consistent, parallel sides for a curved sidewalk, build one side first. Then use a “gauge board”—a 1×4 with blocks screwed to it—to position the other side. In wet weather, hardboard can swell and your perfect curves might become wavy. So if rain is forecast, be prepared to cover your hardboard forms.
Совет 3: Keep stakes below the form tops
Screed without obstructions
Drive or cut off stakes below the form top to make screeding easier.
Stakes that project above forms create a hurdle for your screed board—and screeding concrete is hard enough without obstacles. So before you pour, take five minutes to cut off any protruding stakes. If the tops of your forms are near ground level, make sure your screed board won’t drag against the ground; you may have to skim off a little dirt to clear a path for the board.
Top 10 Concrete Walkway Molds Mistakes
1. Ordering just enough. If you’re ordering concrete, it’s much better to pay $60 for an extra half yard of concrete than to come up short. You don’t have to use it all. The driver will haul away the leftovers.
2. Ignoring the forecast. A little rain can destroy a freshly poured slab. Beware of hot, dry weather too. The concrete may set faster than you can finish it, especially if you’re a beginner.
3. Working solo. Line up more help than you think you’ll need. Extra help not only lightens the workload but avoids situations where the concrete hardens faster than you can work.
4. Not being ready. A big concrete pour is a rush job. Don’t add stress by waiting until the last minute to finish forms or gather tools. Have everything done and all your tools handy long before the truck pulls up.
5. Using wimpy wheelbarrows. A heavy load of concrete can crush a garden wheelbarrow. Use heavy-duty models only, even if you have to rent them ($15 per day).
6. Relying on fiber. The tiny fibers added to some concrete mixes may reduce surface cracking, but fiber is no substitute for metal rebar or wire mesh.
7. Finishing with extra water. It’s tempting to sprinkle a little water on the surface while you’re troweling to help you get a smooth finish. But it weakens the surface and will lead to flaking later.
8. Getting burned. Some people can tolerate hours of skin contact with concrete. Others end up in the emergency room with severe burns. Don’t risk it: Wear gloves and long pants, and wash concrete off skin immediately.
9. Tearing off forms too soon. It’s easy to break off concrete edges while removing forms. So let the concrete harden for at least two days first.
10. Forgetting your autograph. Be sure to scratch your initials in the concrete before it hardens.
Совет 4: Put down a solid base
Pack the base
A plate compactor is a heavy vibrating machine that solidly packs a soil or gravel base.
A firm, well-drained base is the key to crack-free concrete. The best plan for a solid base usually includes compacted soil followed by several inches of a base material such as gravel. But the best base depends on climate and soil conditions. So talk to a local building inspector who’s familiar with conditions in your neighborhood. Packing the soil with a rented plate compactor is always a good idea, but you may be able to skip the gravel altogether if you have sandy soil.
Видео: Как залить бетонную плиту
Совет 5: Окунуться в пузыри
Pack the concrete
Packing the concrete forces out air bubbles and voids that weaken a slab.
When you pour concrete, air pockets get trapped against forms, leaving voids in vertical surfaces. That usually doesn’t matter on sidewalks or driveways. But aboveground, on stairs, curbs or walls, the results can look like Swiss cheese. To prevent that, just grab a 2×4 and “plunge” all along the forms. Then go all along the forms with a hammer, tapping the sides.
Совет 6: Avoid too much water
When you have concrete delivered, the first words out of the driver’s mouth may be “Should I add some water?” Unless the concrete is too dry to flow down the chute, your answer should be “No, thanks.” The right amount of water is carefully measured at the plant. Extra water weakens the mix. More water makes it easier to work with right away, but will lead to a weaker slab.
If you’re mixing your own concrete, do this test: Plow a groove in a mound of concrete with a shovel or hoe. The groove should be fairly smooth and hold its shape. If it’s rough and chunky, add a smidgen of water. If it caves in, add more dry concrete.
Совет 7: Не откладывайте плавание
Bull float in action
Use a bull float to flatten large areas immediately after placing the concrete.
Close-up of mag float
Use a magnesium or wooden float to flatten smaller areas.
After screeding concrete, the next step is to “float” it. Floating forces the stones in the mix down and pulls the cement “cream” to the surface so you can trowel or broom the surface later without snagging chunks of gravel. If you wait too long and the concrete begins to stiffen, drawing the cream up is difficult or impossible. So the time to float is right after screeding. On a long sidewalk or driveway, it’s best to have a helper who can start floating even before all the screeding is done. There is one reason to delay floating, though: If puddles of water form on the surface after screeding, wait for them to disappear before floating.
On small projects, you can use a hand float made from wood or magnesium (both at home centers). The “mag” float glides easier for less arm strain. But for bigger projects like driveways or patios, don’t mess around with a hand float. Instead, rent a bull float. The long handle extends your reach and makes the job easier, while the broad head covers the surface quickly and flattens out any bulges or depressions. To make the surface as flat as possible, float it in both directions.
Recipe for a Lasting Concrete Driveway
Too many builders—pros and DIYers alike—treat a driveway just like a patio or sidewalk. But because they support vehicles, driveways deserve some extra effort and expense. Whether you’re hiring a contractor or doing it yourself, here are three suggestions for a stronger slab:
Толщина: Most driveways are 4 in. thick, but consider a 5-in. slab. That extra inch of concrete increases the strength of the slab by about 50 percent but increases the cost of a typical driveway by only $200 to $300.
Армирование: There are two ways to reinforce a concrete driveway: with rods of rebar or with wire mesh. The purpose of reinforcement is to reduce cracking and to hold the slab together if it does crack. Rebar does both jobs better and costs only a few bucks more for a typical driveway.
Основание: What goes under your driveway is just as important as the driveway itself. The best base varies according to climate and soil conditions. It may be a 16-in. layer of special base material or 6 in. of compacted gravel. To get advice, talk to a building inspector who’s familiar with soil conditions in your area. If you’re hiring a contractor to do the job, be sure the bids describe the base in detail. And don’t choose a low bid that skimps on the base work.
Совет 8: Cut deep control joints
Cutting a control joint
Hand cut control joints with a special groover and straightedge while the concrete is still soft.
Close-up of groover
A groover has a blade (typically 1-in.) on the underside that cuts the groove.
The grooves in concrete are called “control joints” because they control cracking. Concrete shrinks as it dries, so cracks have to happen somewhere. Control joints create straight breaks rather than an ugly spiderweb pattern. They also limit cracks that form later. On a sidewalk, space joints 5 ft. apart or less; on a slab or driveway, no more than 10 ft. apart.
There are two ways to make control joints: Plow them in the wet concrete right after floating or cut them the following day with a saw. You can buy a diamond blade for your circular saw at home centers. Creating joints with a “groover” in wet concrete is less work and less mess. Joints should be at least one-fourth the depth of the concrete. A groover that cuts 1-in.-deep grooves costs about $25. If you have an inexpensive version ($7) that doesn’t cut deep enough, use it to create the initial joint, then deepen the cut with a stiff putty knife.
Совет 9: Finish with a broom
Broom the finish
A stiff broom creates a slightly roughened concrete surface.
A smooth, steel trowel finish is too slippery for outdoor concrete. Instead, drag a broom over the concrete. You’ll get a nonslip texture and hide imperfections left by floating or troweling. You can use a plain old push broom, but a special concrete broom cuts finer lines. The sooner you start, the rougher the finish. Make your first pass about 15 minutes after floating. If the texture is too rough, smooth it over with a mag float and try again in 15 minutes. Drag the broom over the concrete in parallel, slightly overlapping strokes. You may have to rinse off the broom occasionally to avoid a too-rough finish.
Совет 10: Slow the curing
Cover with plastic
Plastic sheeting keeps the moisture in the concrete and aids curing.
Water is essential for the chemical process that makes concrete harden—the longer concrete stays damp, the harder and stronger it gets. One way to slow down drying is to cover concrete with 4-mil plastic sheeting. When concrete is hard enough so you can’t make an impression with your finger, gently spread the plastic. Stretch it out to eliminate wrinkles and weigh down the edges to seal in moisture. When you see signs of drying, lift the plastic and gently sprinkle on more water. Keep a sidewalk or patio damp for three days. Seven days is best for a driveway. Plastic can cause mottled coloring on concrete, but the splotches disappear in a month or two.
Pros often skip the plastic and spray on a waxy liquid “curing compound” to slow down evaporation. Though not as effective as plastic, curing compounds are easy to apply with a garden sprayer. Curing compounds are available at home centers.
